Memories Of A Unified Berlin
(an article)


In 1992 I took a tour to the former Eastern Bloc countries previously closed to the West. Amongst the cities visited, one of the most memorable was Berlin, then in the throes of the gigantic construction and development program necessary for it's reinstatement as the capital of a unified Germany. The decision to relocate the seat of government from Bonn to Berlin, together with the huge corporate investment had forced the German government to spend billions of Deutschmarks on restructuring the city to take its place as part of the "new Europe" and a founder member of the EU.

Everywhere cranes stood skeletally over enormous building works. Cat's cradles of pastel-coloured pipes straddled streets, criss-crossed junctions and wandered over wastelands. A construction engineer's dream, Berlin was also his nightmare. The high water table in this sandy area makes building tricky, and to bring the projects in on time constant pumping was necessary. The final triumphant achievement of the architect's dreams and the beauty of the modern city is a salute to the energy, hard work and expertise of the teams of specialists who, working under very difficult conditions, achieved the impossible. 

The Brandenburg Gate, formerly the boundary between East and West, now proudly faces the new Parliament buildings, the symbol of a unified Germany. Few signs remain of the huge bombing raids of WWII, although the stark finger of the ruined tower of the Kaiser Willem Votivkerk, straddling the Kurfurstendamm in the centre of the fashionable shopping district has been left as a mute reminder of the past. A reminder of the horrors of war, the floodlit ruins carry a mute message against over-riding ambition. In the areas we visited, there was little evidence of the RAF's saturation bombing raids which left Berlin in ruins. Instead, many restored public buildings and monuments grace the fashionable avenues and canals.

Also on the K'damm, is the smart department store CDV,  which enjoys a prominent position in the huge city, and rivals London's famous Harrods for luxury and variety. Display cupboards in the ladies' department were stuffed with furs. Minks; blue and red fox, marten, sable and less expensive skins tumbled into the sales assistant's arms whenever the doors were opened. A tall leggy blonde in a Blackglamour sable turned slowly gazing into the three-sided mirror. 

Taking the glass-walled lift to the higher floors was the tea section where birch and elm cabinets fitted with small drawers with brass fittings housed the selection. These listed the names of the many varieties of teas. Lapsang Suchong; China, Green, Indian, Ceylon; hundreds of varieties. Only expert would know all the brands. Tea drinking must be big in BerlinOne floor higher for the same scenario on a smaller scale. This time it was specialist coffees. Colombian, Java, Puerto Rican, Kenyan - too numerous to mention, and what a delicious smell!

Then, one arrived at the open-plan, glass-walled restaurant. Here there were special sections for every food. Health, Chinese, smorgasbord, carvery, salad-bars, and of course every kind of sausage, Germans lurve sausages. In another area were sumptuous cakes, puddings and strudels, each one an enticing example of the pattisier's art. Displayed in shining splendour, topped with cream, cherries, hand-made chocolate and spun sugar, one could feel the ripples of temptation from the onlookers. Making a choice was difficult.

Further along, cheeses of all types jostled with breads and rolls, plain and salted biscuits, snacks and savouries. However, these foods are in luxury shops everywhere. What really grabbed the imagination were the table decorations, the fanciful settings and imaginative use of ice-sculpture, and the delicately carved fruit and vegetables. It was a tribute to the skill and creativity of the chefs and pastry-cooks of KAY-DEE-VEE.

"Check-Point Charlie" museum, formed from two battered double-story houses close to the infamous East/West barrier, was filled with thousands of mementoes of 40 years of Communist oppression. It generated great interest, as well as sadness for the wasted energy of ideological oppression and the lives it blighted. 

Testament to the desperation of the East Germans to escape from Communist domination, it houses hundreds of ingenious inventions used to cross over the Wall, ranging from a one-man glider to a mini-submarine and everything in-between. A tiny VW Beetle converted to carry a hidden passenger stood in pride of place, while a clumsy under-water breathing apparatus - refined and improved - was later sold to the Canadians for naval use. Photographs of dangerously unstable tunnels bear witness to daring attempts to rejoin divided families. With tears in our eyes and lumps in our throats, we imagined what these people had endured after more than sixty years of aggression.

Our first glimpse of the famous Wall was unimpressive. Dirty, bland, it was very different from the fearsome barrier we'd imagined. Scrawled with grafitti and crude ugly pictures of Breshnev and Brandt embracing in the "Kiss of Peace" - the enemies' first stumbling effort at re-unification - it was a pathetic remainder of the fearsome barrier separating nations. For years, this wall had alienated thousands of "Ossies" and forced them to live lives of austere deprivation under Communism. Unification had come  at last giving the "have-nots" a taste of what life could offer, and they were grabbing it with both hands.

 

Barbara Durlacher

 

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James

I stumbled over the opening paragraphs unsure whether this was a history/architectural lesson or a memoir.

Below are a few samples of phrases/sentences that I battled with.

"gigantic construction...huge corporate...huge bombing raids..."

"Everywhere cranes stood skeletally....."??
Seems awkward.

"Cat's cradles of pastel-coloured pipes straddled streets, criss-crossed junctions and wandered over wastelands."
A bit over the top for me.

"Few signs remain....stark finger...ruined tower...left as a mute reminder"
One of these was enough for the reader to get the jist of it. All in one sentence ....a bit much.

"... shopping district has been left as a (mute) reminder of the past. A reminder of the horrors of war, the floodlit ruins carry a (mute) message..."

"previously, skeletally, formerly, proudly, slowly, really, delicately,
dangerously"

Perhaps it is me and my limited grasp on grammar. it will be interesting to hear what the others say.

As writers we must always balance left brain with right.
This forum alone displays of one or the other side dominating.

Points 3 - Very promising piece of writing

2008-02-22